The grandest of these is the Rialto. In the Dorsoduro district, you can visit the workshop of Saverio Pastor, another fórcola maker, who has scale models for sale one canal east of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection; detour south along Fondamenta Soranzo de la Fornace to #341). And she supported young artists, helping turn a struggling Jackson Pollock — with his Abstract Expressionism — into a celebrity. Alessandro: It is a small bite, you know, that you normally have when you have a glass of wine with a friend. Debonair guide Alessandro Schezzini is a connoisseur of Venetian bacari — classic old bars serving wine and traditional cicchetti snacks. Its main drag — the Grand Canal — starts at the fish's mouth and winds through the center. The church is covered with glass and gold mosaics. Donatello was a Florentine working here in Venice at the dawn of the Renaissance. Everything we'll see is within a 10-minute walk of the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark's Square. Terms of Service | Privacy. The "Church of the Friars" was built by the Franciscan order and the art that decorates it feels warmed by the spirit of St. Francis. While there are a number of luxurious big hotels in town, my favorites are the smaller, family-run ones — which combine historic character, a warm and friendly welcome, and plenty of travel tips. Because you can't drive a car in Venice it's perfectly suited to bar hopping like this. Today, they're back in what Venetians believe is their rightful home. They were a huge concern. Over the high altar, glowing red and gold like a stained-glass window, Titian's Assumption of the Virgin Mary sets the tone of exuberant beauty found in this church. The palace kept an armory on display — an intentionally intimidating array of weaponry designed to dishearten potential adversaries. With Rick Steves’ Venice 2007, travelers can experience everything Venice has to offer—economically and hassle-free. Alessandro: This is cicchetto…a little thing that you grab with the hand; has to be finger food. The Naval Museum itself (Museo Storico Navale) is very old-school and military-run, but anyone into maritime history or sailing will find its several floors of exhibits interesting. The goods — in the case of this family, furs, salt, cotton, and coffee — came off ships through this loading dock. But I particularly enjoy seeing art in the setting for which it was designed — that's in situ — like at the Chiesa dei Frari. There's no place like it. The basilica is decorated with a ragtag assortment of mismatched columns and statues from different eras, much of it pillaged from Venice's rivals. You may see construction work being done to strengthen the base of the rebuilt tower. Here, Bellini places them in a physical setting so beautiful it creates its own mood of serene holiness. Traveling New Hampshire Rick Steves style, we’d miss out on seeing the tower of flame that rose to our fifth story apartment window in Rome when a certain organization set a luxury car on fire. Boats come by every few minutes, so you can hop off and on all along the way. To enhance your art experience, you can find a clip related to this artwork at Rick Steves Classroom Europe; just search for “St. You'll see the evolution of warships, displays on old fishing boats, and gondolas (all described in English). By the time she retired, Peggy herself had become a celebrity. Rick: And it can make a small meal. Tintoretto's monsterpiece, Paradise — the largest oil painting anywhere — reminded lawmakers that making wise decisions would ultimately put you in the company of 500 saints. Alessandro is joining us to give our nibbles some meaning. So much to see, so little time. It's an ancient Roman statue carved of precious purple porphyry stone — symbolic of power — pillaged from far away, probably Constantinople, and placed here proudly as spoils of war. Rick: So this is representative of what Francisco found in the market good this morning. The Doge's Palace was built to show off the power and wealth of the Republic. With aggressive trade policies and clever alliances, for Venice, the eastern Mediterranean was a virtual free-trade zone. Alessandro: This, this one they are cooked in the oven. With water taxis, police boats, delivery boats, post boats, and over 400 gondoliers all navigating around the churning vaporetti, there's a lot of congestion on the Grand Canal. Inside is a decor of mosaics, colored marbles, and oriental treasures that's rarely seen elsewhere. Turkey, ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | There's no place like it. While it didn't have vast land holdings, Venice was a mighty trading empire — built upon a network of ports and a mastery of the sea. He organizes two-hour Venetian pub tours (better to book by email than by phone). In this travel class, Rick Steves outlines the glories of Venice, from the Grand Canal to the Rialto Bridge to St. Mark's Square — including art-filled churches, opulent palazzos, twilit gondola rides, and three other cities in the northeast Italian region of Veneto: Padua, Verona, and Ravenna. It's customary to stand. It's a fish-shaped island connected to the mainland by a long causeway. Join Steves on more European adventures every weekday, as episodes of his travel show air twice a day -- at 5:30 a.m. and again at 7:30 p.m. Start at the Piazza di San Marco Here's a breakdown of a few of the must-do's he points out while visiting the city in this episode of "Rick Steves' Europe." On a gondola, you glide through your own private Venice — far from the hubbub of modern tourism. It's perfect for a romantic anniversary, and owner Matteo makes guests feel like royalty. This prison — with its discouraging bars — held commoners and nobles alike. Working with traditional tools, graceful oars are carefully planed to be true and properly balanced. 25:05. Take a joyride and introduce yourself to Venice by boat. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when visiting the island city of Venice.Following the self-guided tours in this book, you'll explore Venice's most important landmarks and cruise the Grand Canal for a close-up look at the elegant palaces, bridges, and churches. Where the Grand Canal opens up into the lagoon stands one of Venice's most distinctive landmarks, the church dedicated to Santa Maria della Salute, Our Lady of Health. Can't afford a private gondola? Video: Carnival in Venice It’s Carnival time! The city's main thoroughfare is busy with traffic. The popular museum of far-out art, housed in the American heiress' former retirement palazzo, offers one of Europe's best reviews of the art of the first half of the 20th century. Today the palazzo houses the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, filled with groundbreaking 20th-century masterpieces. Along with a powerful collection of weapons — state of the art in its day — it comes with some fun curiosities: tiny crossbows, thumbscrews, and a particularly effective chastity belt. All the full length Rick Steves Europe PBS Episodes that I could find. The city is actually a car-free maze of about 100 islands, laced together by several hundred bridges and a vast web of alleys and canalside walkways. Venice Travel Guide by Rick Steves For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, see our FAQ . For me, this church offers the best art-appreciation experience in Venice, because so much of its great art is in situ — right where it was designed to be seen, rather than hanging in museums. Alessandro's tours include sampling cicchetti with wines at three different bacari. From here, you can see how Venice is an island lying in the center of a vast lagoon. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | Portugal Verona, Italy: Joy of the Veneto by Rick Steves' Europe. Every morning, she could sit here on her terrace, sipping her coffee, taking in the Grand Canal, living the Venetian dream. Mary then sends an angel baby to drive away Old Lady Plague. Its domes and elaborate exterior remind us of Venice's close ties with the Greek, Byzantine, and Muslim worlds. Thanks for joining us. ... Venice, Italy: A Boat Tour of the Lagoon by Rick Steves' Europe. Today's boats still come with gondoliers standing up and no rudder or keel. Andy FaceTimed me from the Cinque Terre, and I got to wave to 25 happy travelers on the Rick Steves Best of Europe in 21 Days Tour he is leading. The sprawling palace is a maze of richly decorated rooms. Today many former palazzos survive as hotels. The Christian symbolism is unfamiliar to Western eyes, done in the style of Byzantine icons and even Islamic designs. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. Its stunning golden wall of 250 painted enamels features prophets and saints, and, at its center: Jesus, as the Ruler of the Cosmos. They're built with a slight curve, so that a single oar on the side propels them in a straight line. The Grand Canal cuts Venice in half, and has only four bridges. I have taken one tour - and that was the 14 Family Europe Rick steve’s Tour , with one of my three kids ( my 11 yr old daughter ) . The group was all smiles, tanned, rested, and ready for their Italian seafood feast. Her dining room, with its original table, is still decorated with masterpieces by Brancusi, Braque, and others. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Venice. The show has reached its tenth season to date. Adjacent, Giovanni Bellini's Madonna and Saints was painted by the father of the Venetian Renaissance in a softer, more Venetian style. Crown-shaped La Salute was the crowning achievement of architect Baldassare Longhena (who also did St. Mark's Square's "new" wing and the Ca' Rezzonico), and the last grand Venetian structure built before Venice's decline began. Alessandro: When you come here to the bar, you have to order what they find in the market in the morning; has to be fresh. Sign in to YouTube. Then, after a quick glide down this canal, the vessel was completely outfitted and ready to bolster Venetian dominance of the Mediterranean. These are the videos that Rick posts on his blog, where he shares his travel experiences, candid opinions, and what's on his mind. The winged lion is the symbol of Mark, the patron saint of Venice. And, in good medieval style, they come with religious lessons. Rick Steves, Venice Bites Updates . Rick: Eat with your fingers, with your wine. (Walk down the Accademia side of the canal called Rio San Trovaso; as you approach Giudecca Canal, you'll glimpse the beached gondolas on your right across the canal.). You grab it, they sell it from the tail — In Donatello's wood carving of St. John the Baptist, the prophet of the desert — dressed in animal skins and almost anorexic from his diet of bugs 'n' honey — announces the coming of the Messiah. In Rick Steves Venice you'll find in-depth Rick-tested information on: . Scandinavia But all the magic sits on a practical foundation of political and economic might. Life is good. Tintoretto's Triumph of Venice shows the city — always represented blond and virtuous — in heaven among the Greek gods, receiving the wealth of the sea. This exquisite, professional, and small hotel has nine plush rooms, a velvety royal living/breakfast room, and its own dock for water taxi arrivals. Easy-to-follow maps (including color maps of Italy, the St. Mark's Square area, the Rialto Area, and a Venetian overview) Trip planning: When to go, pre-trip checklist, festivals and holidays, recommended books and movies The art of the gondola survives in the quiet back canals. The vast Hall of the Great Council could host a meeting of 2,500 nobles. Venice, more than any other city, is the place to get out early and stay out late — to be swept away. Rick: So, what is cicchetti? While lots of towns made plague monuments, Venice built this entire church in hopes of surviving a disease that hit in 1630, and within 14 months killed a third of its people. She married the painter Max Ernst. As they've done for a thousand years, artisans here are patiently restoring a damaged piece of mosaic. This is a great way to try a variety of dishes. According to the romantic legend, gazing out the window, prisoners tried to enjoy their last view of Venetian beauty, sighed…and were taken to their cell. Until a few weeks ago, Venice was inundated with tourists. The interior of the basilica glitters with its gold-leaf mosaic work. The Pala d'Oro, or Golden Altarpiece, is a medieval masterpiece. And for further encouragement, the famous Bridge of Sighs led directly from the palace to its infamous prison. Karel: Deep breath, deep breath…. The doge was something of an elected king, which only makes sense in an aristocratic republic like Venice. Here in the Senate Hall, nobles gathered to address their colleagues, debate, and pass laws. (Here's hoping that very soon, Venice will once again be crowded. By Rick Steves and Gene Openshaw. Because of its former wealth, Venice is a city of palaces. I'm Rick Steves, surrendering to the timeless charms of Venice. This is just one more way to yield to the enchanting wonders of this "most serene" city. Venice's sleek and graceful gondolas are a symbol of the city. All this precious art is carefully maintained in the church's mosaic workshop. Well, I'm all alone! For an ear-shattering experience, be here at the top of the hour. With a good regional wine in a rustic setting, you can eat cheaply and make new friends or enjoy old ones. In a scene-by-scene storyboard, we see Adam lonely in the garden, the creation of Eve, and then trouble: from apple…to fig leaf…to banishment. For four centuries, this was the most powerful piece of real estate in Europe. The most lavish face the Grand Canal. The grand church of St. Mark's was built in a distinctly Eastern style. The golden archangel Gabriel at the top always faces into the wind. While this prison was considered relatively comfortable in its day, wasting away in here, with so much beauty so close, must have been a particularly cruel punishment. Alessandro: With your finger, with your wine, yeah. Rialto, which left the politics to San Marco, has long been the commercial district of Venice. Nearby, in an artisan's workshop, visitors are welcome to observe as he provides for the city's 400 gondoliers. Glorious paintings throughout the palace reminded Venetians of their heritage and divinely ordained greatness. In 1948, the American-born heiress retired here in Venice. Renaissance humanism demanded Madonnas and saints that were accessible and human. Titian's complex composition draws you upward — from man on earth, to triumphant Mary, and on up as she rises to join God in heaven. These much-coveted and exquisitely cast bronze horses are a trophy befitting the city's power. The Doge's Palace — the ruling center and residence of Venice's duke — was built to show off the power and wealth of the Republic and to remind visitors that Venice was number one. Photo credit: Courtesy of Rick Steves. Venice, more than any other European city, has a seductive charm. France As Venetian nobles traded their way into fabulous wealth, they built luxurious palaces like this one, which has been owned by the Pisani family for nearly 400 years. Here in the doge's lavish apartment, a map illustrates the reach of the Venetian maritime empire — which stretched across most of the eastern Mediterranean. +39-041-522-4064). Posted on March 24, 2020 April 29, 2020 Daily Dose of Europe: Piero’s Venice Venice Lagoon: Zattere waterfront, Italy. The remains of St. Mark lie beneath the high altar. Stepping into La Salute, the glorious architecture — a round dome atop a hexagonal base — makes the relatively small church seem bigger than it is. Mark — looking pretty grumpy after the long voyage — became the city's patron saint, and his symbol, the winged lion, became the symbol of Venice. (If you think of this tour as a light dinner with a local friend, it's a particularly good value.). Be thankful…and keep on travelin'. 2:17. At its peak, in the early 15th century, of its 180,000 citizens, nearly 1,000 were fabulously wealthy. Ciao! The style? These four guys are a favorite of mine. We had the great pleasure of hosting American travel writer and television personality Rick Steves in late April. I’m one happy dad right now — because both my kids called me today from Europe. The creation dome tells the story of Genesis with Adam and Eve and the original sin. Survey the city by cruising the Grand Canal on a boat called a vaporetto. Located in Italy, at the north end of the Adriatic Sea, is Venice. And perhaps the best way to appreciate that is gliding through its picturesque canals on a gondola. 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